My 2017 Trip to Taiwan

7 Days solo

In November, 2017 I took my first business trip to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. It turned out that I would take many, but I wasn’t certain that would be the case and I decided to take advantage of being in that part of the world to add an extra week of vacation and another country to the growing list I had visited.

While I was considering potential destinations, a friend from work, who had lived in Taipei for several years, strongly recommended that I visit Taiwan.

I took her advice, rented a car, booked hotels, and planned a lot of photo opportunities along the northeastern coast and in the Taroko Gorge. Although I’m not a fan of cities, I chose to visit Taipei to begin with, then planned to drive for the rest of the trip.

As I have written elsewhere, I often have many fears when I travel, but usually none of them come to pass. I was not so lucky on this trip, but in the end, perhaps that was a lucky lesson, because the trip turned out OK in the end. Perhaps this would help me to feel less fear in the future. Though, I doubt it.

My route

Day 1 - Saturday, November 18, 2017

In a plane 11:00

I’m on my flight to Taipei. So far, so good. I paid extra to increase the weight allowed for my suitcase to 30kg (and it weighed 25.7kg, whew!), and upgraded my seat from 22F to 7G, much better. 

The weather is still promising rain for the entire trip. I’ll have to see how that goes. 

Taipei 20:47 

OK, I’m in Taipei, and as I feared, it’s just a big city to me. I did a little shopping, but was disappointed with both the selection and the prices. After a lot of walking, I was getting hungry. Eventually, I just went back to the apartment I had rented.

When I finally did get back, I struggled to find the right door. Just like I struggled to find the elevator when I left the apartment.

The guy who owned the apartment made me wait for 10 minutes and then left very quickly with only a few words. That wasn’t terrible, but just contributed to the general lackluster feel of the day so far.

Now I’m back in the apartment, my legs are very tired and I’m trying to decide whether I really want to bother going out again to get something to eat. I don’t really see Taipei as an interesting location to shoot. It’s been raining anyway. 

So I’m thinking this is likely to be a bit disappointing as a vacation. On the other hand, I might as well just accept it and do what I feel like.

I’m surprised to see that Taiwan appears to use US style outlets. 

I’m just wondering what I should plan on doing tomorrow. Likewise, I need to get a ride back to the airport on Monday to pick up my rental car. I wonder how I should do that. 

Day 2 - Sunday, November 19, 2017

Taipei 11:16 

It’s Sunday morning. I woke up fairly early and stayed in bed for a couple of hours. I finally got up at about 9am or so, but I didn’t got to get breakfast until after 10. I’m back now and trying to decide what to do.

I can take the entire day to walk, and head over to the Elephant mountain trail. The assumption, then, is that I would get back to the AirBnB room fairly early, but completely done and try to sleep fairly early, so that I can wake up and be out of the apartment fairly early. 

I still don’t know exactly how to call for a taxi. I’ve read that there are numbers I can call that promise to speak English. We can see. 

I don’t think I’ll have energy or desire to try a night market. I didn’t last night and unless I take a nap for a few hours, I doubt I will tonight. 

Part of my difficulty traveling, I think, is the challenge of dealing with the voices in my head, telling me that I should have done this or that, when I just don’t want to. I’m actually feeling tired. I have a little bit of a headache. I’d like to take a nap. OK, I think I will. 

Then I can go for a walk to the Elephant Mountain hike, which, I read, has a lot of stairs. If I take the hike in the afternoon, I may have the best chance of being there when the lights start coming on. I know I will be tired though. Let me check the walk times...

OK, Google claims 1 hour each way, which seems pretty doable. I can take a nap now and walk later. 

12:08 

OK, I took a nap and just woke up. I am feeling better, despite still having a little headache. I’m going to watch the Danish news and then head out.

12:27 

OK, I watched the news and I’m still not feeling super energized, but I’ll pack up soon. 

Day 3 - Monday, November 20, 2017

Taipei Airport 10.20 

I’m at the airport to rent a car and, well, for once, one of my fears about travel came true. 

I realized in the plane leaving Denmark that I had forgotten to pack my international driver’s license, which I had often brought with me when traveling in Europe, but no one ever asked to see. 

Well, it really is required here. So I cannot rent a car. Period. Nothing to do. Damn.

All my reservations are past cancellation, so the money for those hotels, etc., is all lost. Perhaps even for the car itself. There is nothing to do about that now, so I don’t want to bother getting upset about it. The worst is just that I’m not going to see Taroko Gorge.

I just realized that I could go there today/tonight, and return tomorrow (because there is no easy way to get between the two hotels). Perhaps, however, I could find a way. Regardless, I must give up on going to the third hotel. I will stay in Taipei for those nights. 

It will take a while to get over that. This is, as they say, an adventure. 

On a Train 11.17 

OK, I’m on an express train back to Taipei Main Station, where I hope to get another train to a station that the hotel offers a transfer service for. It’s not certain that I’ll be able to get a ticket, although there are three or four trains that potentially could work (the first is probably too early, perhaps the second as well). 

I bought a prepaid SIM card so I have data now, which is pretty much required to make this work. I only got about 5 minutes speaking time, which is, I hope, enough. I’ll try to do most over email.

I’m a little afraid that I won’t get much out of the gorge hotels if I don’t have a car, but I’ll do what I can. It’s at least better going there, if possible, than staying 4 more nights in Taipei. I will have to spend at least 2 nights in Taipei, and I leave quite late Friday evening, which kinda sucks, but we’ll figure that out. 

At very least, I have learned that I can take the express train to the airport for about 15% of the cost of a taxi, but I need to be able to get my luggage to the main train station. We’ll see how that looks later. 

Day 4 - Tuesday, November 21, 2017 

Day 5 - Wednesday, November 22, 2017 

Taroko Gorge 10:36 

OK, so I’ve managed to make it to Taroko Gorge despite forgetting my international driving license. I am not sure yet whether I will have to pay for the rental car, we’ll see. I have asked to cancel my hotel without having to pay for the room, and it seems like they accepted that, but we will have to see.

I took the express train to the main train station, waited in a very long line, but managed to get a ticket on the next train to the station closest to Taroko Gorge, then paid for a taxi to take me to the hotel. I arrived at about 4pm in time for my dinner reservations at 5:30, and, unfortunately, I chose the wrong restaurant without realizing it until the following morning. The food was fine, so I shouldn’t complain, although I had hoped to eat in the Chinese restaurant. Oh, well.

I got up fairly early, although by the time I was out of the hotel, it was already quite light out. Even so, when I got to the locked gates to the location where I wanted to shoot, they were still locked despite the time being about 6:20 (they claimed to open at 6am). I took a few pictures in the area and someone came to open them within 10 minutes or so, so I was still the first person into the “park”.

I got some nice pictures, so that was worth it. I decided to get up even earlier the following day. After shooting and having breakfast, I had until 15:40 before my transfer to the next hotel. I wandered about. There wasn’t much more to take pictures of, so I ended up doing more hiking than shooting. I did find a nice, quiet, monument, and after taking a few shots and exploring a bit, I laid down on a wooden bench and just listened to some podcasts while relaxing. 

I had the location to myself, except for a dog that started barking at me after a while. I noticed that it had some puppies, but they seemed skittish so I did not try to shoot them. Then a couple of women came while the dog was still barking, and after a bit it lost interest and the women explored very briefly, then left. 

After a little while longer I packed up and noticed the puppies where still on the edge of the park, but the larger dog was gone. I slowly approached them and took pictures for a little while, until one left altogether and the other two hid in the foliage, obviously uncertain about me. 

I wondered about a little longer, then went back to the hotel and got a cup of coffee and transferred the pictures onto my computer.

The transfer bus dropped me off on a street, close to a statue. I waited for about a half an hour, taking pictures after a while. Finally, I called the hotel. It turned out that the driver had been waiting before I arrived, but at a slightly different location, so he hadn’t realized that I had arrived. 

He brought me up to the next hotel. It’s actually a bit more of an advanced family campground. I have a room for 6 people, which was expensive and they were obviously embarrassed how much they were charging me. They actually gave me a free couple of steaks for dinner, plus a bag lunch for my train trip. They also helped me buy train tickets and booked a transfer to the train station for me. 

I’m waiting for the transfer now.

I’ve booked a hotel in Taipei about a 5 minute walk from the main train station. I will take the express train back to the airport on Friday afternoon. The rain appears to have ended. It is actually sunny here now, although the weather promises cloudy weather in Taipei for the rest of my trip.

There was some sort of show after dinner last night, but I decided not to go, thankfully, because, of course, it was in Chinese and really intended for children. There was lots of loud singing and screaming, both before and after. I heard a periodic crash outside my window and the first several times I expect to hear a human voice exclaiming about their lack of luck, but eventually realized it must have been an ice machine. 

I went to bed before 10pm and fell asleep fairly well, then woke up at about 5am and got up about 20 minutes before 6. I published my pictures and did a few other things, then left my room at about 6. It was already light, and a cloudless sky, although the sun had not come over the mountains yet. 

I walked out of the hotel (after happening upon someone who was able to open the gate for me). It took me a moment, but I found the path down to the visitor center (better than the road I almost took). For a moment, I wondered if I should have taken the path they mentioned at the desk, but decided it would be too dark, and I think it was the right decision. 

I found a place to set up my tripod on the roof of the visitor center and took a bunch of pictures of the sun touching the hills around the valley I’m in, then eventually walked down to a lookout station and took some more pictures of the sun raising above the river below.

I got back, dropped off my camera, had breakfast, came back, transferred pictures, took a shower and then a nap, packed up.

I can’t remember if the transfer is at 11:20 or 11:00, but I think it must be 11:20. I’ve checked out and the desk staff suggested that I sit here, in the lobby/restaurant. I can see people walking by with suitcases, which, as always, gets me nervous that the bus will come and leave without me. I could move, but I should trust them, I suppose. 

Taipei 19:39 

OK, the driver came a few moments later. I was in a car alone for most of the trip, but he picked up a girl at a gas station when we got closer to the train station. At the train station, I didn’t recognize it until I realized I came in on the back side. I used my phone’s GPS to confirm and tried to explain to the driver, but I don’t know if he got it. The train took a little over 2 hours, and the guy in front of me put his chair back for much of the trip. There was nowhere for my suitcase to go, so it was crammed against my leg for most of the trip.

I almost missed my stop, but luckily checked my GPS before the train started to leave the main station. It had stopped at several stations and I thought it still had further to go, but must have driven and stopped again when I hadn’t noticed. 

Anyway, I got out OK, found my hotel OK, and went out briefly to do some shopping at H&M, so I now have underwear, socks, a couple more t-shirts, and a flannel shirt. Then I went and bought a cup of coffee and a tiramisu (which is not helping my stomach fat), and came back to the room to work on pictures, watch the Danish news, and, it turns out, watch part of “You’ve got mail.”

Somehow it occurred to me that I have taken myself out of the whole life thing. I am living, yes, and trying to do things, yes, but I’m not sure if I really have dreams or ambitions. I just want to make my “last days” bearable. I’m not really excited about anything. 

Perhaps I’m just tired.

Anyway, I had been thinking I should go to the night market tonight, but I doubt I will. It is just much easier to stay in the hotel room. I’m not sure what I’ll do tomorrow and Friday. I could try to walk over to the night market location, so I know where it is, then come back to the hotel and take a nap in the afternoon. Then try to go out again. I have a couple of photography options to investigate still. I could try going into the main train station to see if I can get some motion pictures there. The night market itself could be a subject. Perhaps also there are other locations around there that might be interesting. 

I’ve actually gotten a fair number of pictures that I like, so the trip has been less of a fiasco than I had feared. I did not really experiment with food much yet. 

Ah, I just remember that I still should study more for my Danish citizenship exam. I’m not much in the mood for that.

Day 6 - Thursday, November 23, 2017 

Taipei 09:03 

I’m wondering what I should do today. I have a full day today, and then, pretty much, a full day tomorrow before my flight. I don’t have a lot of energy to explore and take pictures. I really should do the night market tonight, though I’m happy that I didn’t bother last night. We’ll see if I can get the energy. For now, I’m holed up in my hotel room after having ventured out for the somewhat disappointing breakfast the hotel offered.

It was more of a chicken sandwich, to be honest. 

The night market is only 1 km away, so I can walk there in the evening. I’ve been thinking that I could walk there during the day, so that I feel more comfortable with the trip and the location. Perhaps I’ll also be able to find something to shoot during the day as well. This hotel is rather noisy, but that’s not been a big problem.

12:52 

My teeth hurt. I ate (most of) the bag of cashew nuts I bought back in the KL airport. A cleaning lady came into the hotel room, despite my “do not disturb” note on the door. I told her I would not need cleaning. She offered water, but I still have 5 and a half bottles. I think that will be enough for today and tomorrow.

My eyes are a bit tired from working on pictures. My head a bit woozy from listening to my audiobook. I really “should” go outside and walk a bit. I do not particularly want to. It is such a struggle that reminds me of Kate, who asked why I so often came up with excuses for doing what I wanted to do. Why not just say I want to do what I do? Why indeed?

Perhaps another nap. Then my desire to go outside will return. Eventually, I will need lunch. Why don’t I want to go out?

I think about the decisions I must make. I need to walk. I need to choose a location for lunch. I should exercise. But I just feel tired. It’s probably OK to take it easy today, as I have suggested for myself. It would be good to stay up late, then sleep late tomorrow. I would miss breakfast, but I didn’t like breakfast. I can buy something I want elsewhere. Find a Starbucks, or even at McDonalds. 

Tired.

19:21 

OK, so I took another nap and woke up at about 13:50. It took a while, but I eventually ventured outside (which seems to have pleased the staff, as they managed to clean my room while I was gone). I took my camera, but it never left my backpack. I should go for another 15 minute walk if I want to close my circles, and I certainly don’t have any excuse not to, but I don’t have any desire to do so either.

I’ve processed all my pictures from Taiwan already and started on pictures of models again. I’m reaching the point of diminishing returns. 

The old, where’s my cheese problem. 

I do remember a time, and it was not so long ago, that I wondered how I could convince women to let me take pictures of them nude. That seemed impossible. Now I have lots of women who want me to take pictures of them, and I’m actually less interested in doing so now. 

I was afraid to travel alone, now I know that I can, and it’s less exciting.

I find myself wondering, once again, as December approaches, what do I want to do next year. Perhaps I should have a look at last year’s journal.  

Day 7 - Friday, November 24, 2017 

Day 7+1 - Saturday, November 25, 2017 

On a plane 08:28

I’m on the last leg of my journey now. Just sat down in the flight to Copenhagen from Heathrow.

I had a surprising (to me) experience in the airport in Hong Kong. The quick version is that a girl that I had sat next to for about an hour asked to take a picture of me, right around the time when I was thinking I should move because I was afraid that she’d think it was strange to be sitting next to me now that all the other seats were empty. She left immediately, but it turns out that we were on the same flight, so I saw her again and asked for a picture of my own, and then we started talking.

We’re now connected on both Instagram and Couch Surfers (which she had never heard of). Afterwards, I felt a little like a 2 year old kid wanting to show an adult all my toys (I showed pictures, my albums, how heavy my backpack was, etc.). She was appreciative, so it’s only myself who thinks all these negative things. I wish I didn’t.

I wrote Nicola about the incident after Polly had taken a picture, but before I realized we were on the same flight and would meet again. Nicola thought it sounded romantic. Once I had taken a picture, I shared it with her and she wrote that she thought that Kerry is back. I guess she might be referring to the fact that I was a little depressed earlier.