My 2014 Trip to Cinque Terre, Italy

7 Days solo

After learning about travel photography from Lee Frost on my trips with his groups to Cuba and Morocco, I decided it was time to try another solo trip.

This time I decided to “cheat” a bit and chose to work with a UK company that arranged hiking trips. They would set up hotels, train tickets, and transfer of my luggage from one hotel to the next. They would also give hiking suggestions. I could then hike with just my photography gear and take advantage of their expertise regarding the locations.

I chose to go to Cinque Terre in northern Italy because I had seen lots of beautiful photos from the area. I went off-season to avoid crowds, which was a good choice for me.

At this point, I was beginning to get better at solo travelling. I still pushed myself a bit too hard, but I was learning to recognize when I was doing so and taking breaks.

My route

Day 1 - Saturday, October 4, 2014

Levanto 20:02

I'm at dinner in Levanto. As always, it took forever to choose a restaurant.

My trip has been fairly easy. Going through the airport was painless. The flight was easy. It was easy to find the train station, though I was there over an hour early. I found a place to check my suitcase and walked around taking pictures. Probably nothing more than one or two publishable, if that, but helped me to start getting warmed up. 

An few people who resembled alcoholics called to me and I took pictures of one of them. The others laughed but were not willing to pose for me. I also took pictures of a girl who was posing for a woman, probably a friend. 

The train trip felt the longest. Took me a little while to find my seat and another passenger was upset when I left my suitcase in the isle, but then I found there was a place I can leave it on the other end of the car.

First course done: Marinated Muscles with Thyme. Yum. 

The train trip gave a few glimpses of the steep cliffs that dive into the water. I arrived too late to start taking pictures this evening, though there were a few potential shots if I had had a tripod while looking for a restaurant, but my goal with this vacation is to enjoy myself, and consider photography secondary and a nice surprise when I find good subjects. 

The sun set over the water, I noticed as I was traveling by train. It was very pretty this evening. Sun rise, I suppose, will be over the mountains. I will do my best to be out before breakfast, and see what I can find as the sun rises. 

Second course done. Linguini with two jumbo shrimp, not de-shelled, and a clam sauce, plus salad greens with cherry tomatoes. Also very nice.  

Day 2 - Sunday, October 5, 2014

Levanto 14:25

Sitting on the beach, my first, and longest walk for the day is over. It was pretty much the perfect length. It started out on the road, and it did take me a little while to find the right way to go, but once I was on the path, it was easy to follow it. I took a lot of pictures along the way, and eventually started taking 5 second video clips as well. I'm curious to see if that works. I'm hoping that the camera has captured some of the sound as well. That's actually what got me hooked, although I started on the terrace, because the leaves were moving and I wanted to capture that (and I couldn't take still photographs due to the low light). 

This morning, there were various church bells that I liked, then a couple of small babbling brooks that offered subtle sounds as well.

I was back to the hotel by 2pm. 

Hiking alone was great. I'm planning on relaxing for a bit and then heading towards the next town north. The light is kind of boring at the moment.

18:41

Dinner! I'm starved. I've ordered muscles in garlic and spices, tomato and mozzarella, and assorted grilled fish. 

So after the beach I walked to the next town northward. I could have followed instructions and climbed over the rather steep hill, but I took the easy way using a tunnel along the coast. My legs are definitely tired today, so I feel it was the right choice. I managed to get to the town and take a bunch of pictures, so I'm pleased. I also wanted to be on the coast anyway.

Day 3 - Monday - October 6, 2014

Monterosso 19:17

Ouch. I pushed myself a little too hard today, and I have a sore knee to show for it. 

OK, here is the day's report.

I got up just a bit past 7am and went to breakfast at 7:30. It had rained during the night and there wasn't any reason to take pictures in the morning. After checking with the desk about logistics, I brought down my suitcase and hit the trail.

Today's trail was steeper and rockier, and more crowded. I steamed ahead of a few tourist groups that were ahead of me, and generally kept up a fairly quick pace on the entire walk. That gave me a free trail when I wanted to take pictures, which was nice. It's hard to say if the result would have been the same if I had gone slowly, but I definitely started to pay for my speed when I reached the end of the trail and headed rapidly downhill to Monterosso.

My left knee started to complain, and it basically hasn't stopped. It's fine when I'm sitting, and generally when I'm walking on an even grade. Hills, however, and downhill in particular, is difficult to walk normally. even flat after a period of down hill, is difficult to walk normally. Ouch.

Still, I was here by about 1pm and have been able to relax since. 

My travel packet arrived at the hotel a little after me, and my suitcase what already there when I got there. After a shower I went for a walk, bought a few postcards and had lunch, while writing. I started with 10, which were easy to fill. They are already sent. We shall see if I buy another batch. 

I also got a cappuccino (which apparently is what Italians call what I think of as a Latte). I'll have to try a Latte to see if I can find the difference.

I went for another short walk, just a little south of the city, then came back and took a swim. The water is still warm. Then I got my camera again and took more pictures until the sun had dropped too low. 

Back in the hotel room, I reviewed the plans for the next couple of days. It's up to me, and I think I will try to visit the two towns close by tomorrow. The weather promises rain, but the receptionist at the hotel said they always promise rain, but it just doesn't. Let's hope she's right.

It's interesting that I enjoy traveling alone. I think the reason is that I often don't know what I want to do, but feel that when I'm with someone else, I either have to have an opinion or I end up being passive and don't really enjoy what "we" do. 

Day 4 - Tuesday, October 7, 2014

Monterosso 17:45

Ow! Ow! Ow! My legs and feet are tired. They felt fine this morning, as I set off inland for my hike today. I was feeling fairly cocky, actually, ready to tell people how a single night's sleep was all I needed. They held out for quite a long time, actually. Indeed, as long as I was heading up, they seemed fine. The problem continues to be going down, and the problem is my left knee. It seriously does not like going down.

Oh, well. 

I had a nice hike, nonetheless. The forecast promised rain today, though it was just overcast as I set off, and there were barely more than a few drops at a time the whole day. Rather than following the coast, I headed up and inland again today. I had the path pretty much to myself. 

I hesitated about bringing all my lenses and my tripod, since I've only used my 24-70mm and my 70-300mm the other days. Today, however, I came across a temple in a pretty pink chalk, around the bend of the trail. I found that, with the tripod and my 10-22mm, I could get the temple and the entire trail in view, then used the video to record my own ascent up the trail. I've been doing short 5 second clips of various locations, and I like the idea of including a clip with me in it. 

Day 5 - Wednesday, October 8, 2014

Monterosso 19:49

I lay on the bed with my feet up, throbbing and sore, wishing I had a bath to soak in. Supposedly, I should have that tomorrow, but the worst thing about traveling as a single is that hotels give you the worst room they have. We shall see.

Otherwise, I do like traveling alone. 

Right, on to the summary of the day.

I started out with an early breakfast at 7:30. The woman who makes coffee complained that, yesterday, everyone was there at 7:30, today, they decided to sleep late. I, of course, as a single guest, don't really count.

After breakfast, before even returning to my room, I decided that I might as well check out the train schedule for tomorrow morning. On my way there, I discovered that there was a lot of wind, clouds, and waves. After buying a ticket for tomorrow, I decided to retrieve my camera and tripod and to get some long exposure shots. I did that for quite a while, dropping my plans for an early start hiking. 

I even visited the chapel on the top of the hill in Monterosso. Taking my time at it. 

Then, I decided that I would "cheat" and take a train to Corniglia. Shaving 3 hours and 30 minutes into a 10 minute train trip. I took the 11:56 train from Monterosso and was on the Corniglia platform at 12:05. 

Following my feet, I headed for the tunnel to the beach. It was fairly easy to find it intuitively, and my headlamp was perfect. I turned it off when I could see the light at the end of the proverbial (or rather, actual) tunnel. A few seconds after, I saw another flashlight heading towards me. This was the only other person who apparently visited the beach today. 

When I got there, the beach was deserted. I spent all my time there taking pictures. When I saw rain on the horizon headed towards the beach, I packed up and left. I made it to about 100m from the tunnel when it started raining, and ran the last 50m as it started coming down reasonably hard. Rather than enter the tunnel, however, as planned, I ducked into the little shelter, which I realized was unpopulated. I took a few shots there, feeling like an intruder, before heading back down the tunnel. 

Emerging on the other side, I trudged up the steps and into Corniglia center. It's a tiny little town, quickly traversed. After doubling back, I succumb to my desire for a cappuccino and free wifi, then headed quickly to the trail to Vernazza ahead of a large group that never caught up with me.

My legs have been weary all day, so I really like that I took the train to avoid the trip out on foot.

Just as I finished dinner... 🚫☔️ Time to run 🏃 to my hotel! 🏡

Day 6 - Thursday, October 9, 2014

Porto Venere 21:46

The day went as follows:

I was up at 7:30 for breakfast, and at the train station by 8:45. 

I took the first train, at 8:55 to Riomaggiore and began hiking at 9:05 or so. 

I had the trails mostly to myself again today, which I loved. 

My legs and left knee were tired, but I managed. I took a few wrong turns, which were frustrating and due to not reading the instructions carefully.

When I got to Porto Venere, the first thing I did was find a cafe and get a cappuccino, being sure to take a picture for Instagram. 

I'm thinking tomorrow that I may not hike at all, but instead just walk around in the town here and see what pictures I can take here, and basically give my legs a rest. We shall see. I hope, at least, to get up before sunrise to shoot the famous row of buildings as the sun hits them (if indeed it will).

Day 7 - Friday, October 10, 2014

Porto Venere 13:30

Lunch time!

I've wisely decided not to hike today. I spent the morning trying to get some pictures of the village. When I returned to the hotel, my room had been serviced, which was nice. I stayed there for an hour or so, then ventured out again when it seemed the sun had come out for a longer visit. I've shot the houses along the pier again and decided to get lunch before returning to the spot along the cliffs to retake those shots as well. I may retake the houses again tomorrow at sunrise, if the horizon is more free of clouds.

My knee still hurts a bit, and my right ankle is also sore with tendonitis, so I feel quite content to take it easy today. The hike offered was just around the island on the other side of the water, and I'm happy to miss it.

15:06

Cafe now, with a cappuccino grande. The day has turned nice.

20:48

Back to the hotel after sunset shooting and dinner. 

Feeling better. I think a few of my sunset pictures will work. I'm proud of myself for dragging my tired body out of the hotel room in time to take them, and for sticking with it until the last minute. 

Now I just have to consider getting up early to take some pictures at sunrise. We shall see.

Day 8 - Saturday, October 11, 2014

Porto Venere 09:15

Time to head home!

I've decided not to seek photographs today. Instead, I'm enjoying reading and relaxing, my legs are on the mend.

14.51

My knee is still sore when I must move my leg.

The video I compiled from lots of short clips taken over the whole trip with my DSLR.